It is worth to start an acquaintance with the past of Chernihiv from Val (rampart, which is a defensive wall of a castle or walled city, having a broad top with a walkway and typically a stone parapet) – former Chernihiv Dytynets. This is an ancient part of the city, its cradle, spiritual and for many centuries the administrative center. It is no coincidence that the majority of historical buildings and museums are concentrated just here. Majestic Spaskyi Cathedral occupies a special place among them. This is one of the oldest preserved cathedrals in Rus. It was founded in the early 30-s of the XIth century by the first known Chernihiv Kniaz Mstyslav – the son of Volodymyr Sviatoslavovych, who christianized Rus.
Borysohlibskyi Cathedral, which is located nearby, is the creation of another ruler of Chernihiv – Davyd Svyatoslavovych, today canonized by Orthodox Church. Built around 1123, the church was dedicated to heavenly patron saints of Yaroslavovychi family and turned into an honorable tomb.
Now the monument is a part of the National architectural-historical park “Ancient Chernihiv” and is a museum.
In the second half of the XVII century from the north-west side of Borysohlibskyi Cathedral, which was the main church of the monastery of the same name at that time, began the construction of the stone refectory, over which the bell tower with the church of Ivan Bohoslov were erected in 1700-1702. In this monumental building, known as Chernihiv Collegium, the administration of the Park ”Ancient Chernihiv” works now and there are several museum exhibitions, among which the most interesting is the exhibition of Ukrainian icons.
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One of the monuments of Val is 12 cast-iron cannons, erected here on the beginning of the XXth century. There is a legend that they were given to the city by Peter I as a sign of recognition of Chernihiv Cossacks’ heroism, which they showed in the battle with Swedish invaders.
We will not deny this legend as traditional stories from deep antiquity decorate history. Opposite to ancient weapon on a high promontory, separated by the ravine from Val, one the most beautiful churches in Ukraine – Kateryna’s Church rises above.
It is the first which meets people who come to our city from the Kyiv highway. It is deservedly considered to be a visiting card of Chernihiv. St. Kateryna’s Church was built in 1715 by general oboznyi of Cossack Host Yakiv Yefymovych Lyzohub in honor of his grandfather Yakiv Lyzohub – Chernihiv colonel, and his comrades-in-arms, who distinguished themselves in the storm of the impregnable Turkish fortress of Azov in 1696. Now the exposition of Folk and Decorative Ukrainian Arts of regional museum named after V. V. Tarnavskyi is placed inside the church.
From the beginning of the XIX century till present Red Square is the administrative and cultural center of Chernihiv. In order to get here from Kateryna’s Church, it is enough to travel a little by a spacious, decorated with fountains the Alley of Heroes. Monuments to our countrymen who have distinguished themselves in the Civil and Great Patriotic Wars: Yu. Kotsiubynskyi, V. Prymakov, V. Antonov-Ovsiyenko, N. Podvodskyi, N. Schors, N. Krapyvyanskyi, I. Kyrponos, V. Senko, and a monument to the heroes-liquidators of the Chernobyl accident are erected here.
Several historic buildings are preserved to our times at Myru Avenue, which covers the Alley of Heroes on both sides. Among them there is a former hotel “Oleksandriyskyi” (now the Historical Faculty of the Pedagogical University), Chernihiv Philharmonic, Mykolaiv Diocesan Brotherhood (Regional Philharmonic), School of Blind Children (School of Music). All of them were built in the beginning of the XXth century and became the decoration of the city. Beside this two memorial stones are erected on the indicated area of Myru Avenue, which was known as Shoseina Street in the late XIX and early XX centuries. One of the memorial stones is on the site of the house, where famous poet-fabulist L. Hlibov lived in 1867-1893, another one there, where was the hotel “Tsargorod”, which is known for having at various times stayed O. S. Pushkin, T.H. Shevchenko and other cultural figures.
Red Square appeared on the map of Chernihiv in the late XVIII and early XIX centuries. This place was called Pyatnitskyi field till now. This name comes from the name of church of St. Paraskeva Pyatnytsa, built in the late XIIth century, located nearby. From the XVIIth century the nunnery existed with the church. But many historians believe that this monastery was founded in the time of ancient Rus. Up till the period of the Mongol invasion indicated territory was a part of a line of urban building. Artisans and merchants lived here and that is confirmed by the results of archaeological excavations.
The architectural ensemble of Red Square, which exists today, was not formed immediately. In the beginning of the XIXth century one-storeyed town council designed by the architect A. Kartashevskiy was built in its western part. Now in this building, which was essentially rebuilt, the regional office of the National Bank of Ukraine is located. Approximately at the same time a two-storeyed building for provincial institutions was built. After multiple renovations it has also changed its form. A regional state administration is located there now.
There are two more architectural complexes in Chernihiv: ancient Yeletskyi and Troitskyi Monasteries . Their creation is traditionally associated with the name of the father of Ruskyi monasticism St Antoniy Pecherskyi. Both monasteries were located outside the city walls at the time of Ancient Rus. Now their temples, Yeletskyi and Uspenskyi Monasteries and bell towers determine the historical panorama of Chernihiv. They are perfectly visible from both Desnyanska flood plain side and Dytynets.
Yspenskyi Cathedral, built in the XIIth century, bell tower 1670-1675 years, cells (XVI-XVII centuries), Petropavlivska church (XVII century) and the stone wall are the part of the composition of the city, located closer to the center. The only wooden building of Cossacks’ time – the house of Feodosiy Uhlynskyi (the end of the XVIIth century) is preserved till now on the territory of the monastery.
As for catacombs of Yelysetskiy monastery, the beginning of which is connected with the name of St. Antoniy Pecherskyi, then, as it has been found in the beginning of the XXth century, they appeared not before than in the XVIIIth century and have largely everyday features. History of the monastery is eventful. Names of many prominent religious and secular figures, as well as the emergence of one of the main sacred objects of Chernihiv – the miraculous icon of the Yeletska Mother of God are connected with the monastery.
A few buildings are located close to the Yeletskyi monastery. Among them there is the prison castle, built in 1803-1806 on the land that the council bought in the monastery, and two-storeyed building of the former men’s collage, built in 1879.
In the same place, opposite the monastery fence stands a huge earthen mound – one of the most famous pagan burial mounds of Ancient Rus – “Chorna Mohyla”. According to legends the founder of Chernihiv Kniaz Chornyi is buried beneath the mound. However, as the excavations carried out in 1872-1873 by the professor D. Ya. Samokvasov had shown the mound was made in the 60th years of the Xth century, at the time, when the city had existed for a long time and under the chronicles were the second importance in Rus.
The architectural ensemble of Troitsko-Illinskyi Monastery occupies the highest part of the urban landscape – Boldyn Hills. This name derives from Ancient Rus “Bold”, which means “oak”, and is first mentioned in chronicles in 1074 on the occasion of the establishment of the monastery in honor of the Holy Virgin in 1069 by St Anhoniy Pecherskyi.
In those distant days the monastery was located on terraces and in slopes of a deep ravine near to the ancient pagan burial ground, which has more than 200 mounds today. Among them barrows “Bezimennyi” and “Hulbyshche” are well known in scientific circles. Historians do not exclude that in pre-Christian times the heathen temple to the Slavic god Perun was in Boldyn Hills.
At first it was a cave monastery, later in the first half of the XIIth century a single-headed Illinska Church was built. It is preserved to these days in the reconstructed form. Entrance to famous Antoniy caves is nearby. Churches and other premises, dug in different historical periods from XII to XIX centuries, are the part of the 350-meter complex.
Today Illinska Church as well as caves are the part of the National architectural-historical park “Ancient Chernihiv” and are available for tourists. During the archaeological excavations ancient caves and remains of architectural structures of various ages were found on the territory of the monastery. Created in Illinska Church museum exhibition gives information about all of this.
In the last quarter of the XVIIth century on a spacious area on the west side of Illinska Church the grand architectural complex led by Troitskyi Cathedral began to be built. It was consecrated in 1695. It gave the present name to the monastery.
New architectural ensemble except the cathedral includes Vvedenska Church (1677-1679), the tower bell (1775), cells and two-storeyed house of the prior, and brick wall with towers (XVII-XIX centuries).
Troitskyi Cathedral serves as the parochial church now and the diocesan administration of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church is on the territory of the monastery.
Troitskyi Monastery was a prestigious necropolis for a long time. Chernihiv hierarchs, public and cultural figures, representatives of noble families are at rest from toil under the cathedral and around it. The miraculous icon of Illinska Mother of God and the holy relics of Feodosiy Uhlytskyi and Lavrentiy are the main sacred objects of the monastery.
On the top of Boldyn Hills near to ancient mounds the Eternal Flame on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier burns as a tribute of memory to those who gave their lives for the freedom of our motherland. The panorama of ancient Chernigov and Holy grove, where, according to traditional stories, inhabitants of our city were christened in 992 is clearly visible from this place. It is no mere chance that famous Ukrainian writers M. Kotsyubynskyi and A. Markovych liked to visit this place. Their graves are preserved up till today just here.
There are other churches and historic buildings in Chernihiv. They are scattered throughout the old Chernihiv. Among them there is Nedilna Church (XVIII century) on Komsomolska Street near to the Central Market. Kazanska Church (XIX century) is on Kotsyubynskyi Street, the Museum-Reserve of M. Kotsyubynskyi, created on the estate of the writer is near to the church.
Buildings of Selyanskyi and Dvoryanskyi underground Banks (the Korolenko library and free fire society with the watchtower), built on the beginning of the XXth century, which decorate Myru Avenue up till now. The country seat of Chernihiv governor with a beautiful two-storeyed palace has been preserved across the Stryzhen River near to the urban recreation park. A modern building of military-historical museum stands nearby.
On the Srtyzhen River shore near to the bridge through which the river is crossed by Hetman Polubotko Street, corps of military hospital are located on a large area. Mykhailo and Fedir’s Church, towering among them, indicates the considerable age of hospital country seat. If you think in this way, you're right. The country seat of a famous colonel Pavlo Polubotok was here at the beginning of the XVIIIth century, and the seminary – one of the oldest educational institutions in the city, was located here up till the October Revolution.
We touched only the past of Chernihiv, but the city has also the present. New modern buildings and temples are building; the city lives with thoughts about the future, keeping in mind its history.
